Actives Synergy and Nanotechnology

5 min read

Hyperpigmentations that affect the skin can be of different types:

- Melasma: closely related to hormonal changes. It is often associated with pregnancy. It can also be the result of contraceptive or hormone replacement medication, hormonal changes caused by thyroid dysfunction, among others.

- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentations: as the name suggests, these are caused as a result of inflammation. As we will see later in this article, inflammatory mediators are stimulating factors in the synthesis of melanin, which is why, after the healing of lesions with associated inflammation (such as pimples), spots often appear in the affected area.

- Lentigs: these are the typical spots of aging. They are associated with excessive sun exposure, appearing mostly in areas where sun exposure is usually more intensive, such as the face, hands or décolleté area.

In common, in the various types of hyperpigmentation, there is an increase in the synthesis of the natural pigment responsible for our skin tone – melanin.

MELANIN, MELANOCYTES AND MELANOGENESIS

The spots result from a build-up of melanin. Its synthesis does not occur on the surface, but in the deepest layer of the epidermis, in specialized cells – melanocytes. In these cells, from an amino acid - tyrosine and, through the action of an enzyme - tyrosinase, the synthesis of melanin occurs. Underlying this process are several inducing factors, especially UV radiation, hormonal factors, inflammation, genetic factors, among others.

The melanin synthesized in the melanocytes will then be transferred to neighboring cells – keratinocytes. These cells are constantly renewing and, as new keratinocytes are synthesized, the pre-existing ones loaded with melanin, are "pushed" towards the most superficial layers of the skin, making the spot visible.

This process is known as melanogenesis and therefore includes 3 phases:

- Induction phase, refers to the stimulation of the entire process by the factors already identified (UV radiation, hormonal factors, inflammatory mediators...);

- Synthesis phase itself, which occurs inside the melanocyte and consists of the conversion of tyrosine into melanin;

- Distribution phase in which the melanin synthesized in the melanocyte is transferred to neighboring keratinocytes and migrates to the most superficial layers of the skin.

NANOTECH^® - SESDERMA DIFFERENTIATING CONCEPT

As we have seen, melanin synthesis occurs in specific cells – melanocytes, located in the deepest layer of the epidermis. One of the biggest challenges of the Dermo-Cosmetic Industry in the development of products with depigmenting action is to ensure that the active ingredients included in the formulations effectively reach the target cells in hyperpigmentation, in depth.

Sesderma products differ from other dermo-cosmetic products because they are formulated with nanotechnology – the active ingredients are conveyed in liposomes with structures analogous to the membranes that make up the cells in our skin, in order to promote an increase in the penetration of the active ingredients in depth. In this way, the active ingredients present in the formulations reach the target cells in excellent concentrations, for their maximum efficacy, combined with excellent tolerance.

AZELAC UK – RANGE HIGHLIGHTED IN THE FIGHT AGAINST DARK SPOTS

In the Azelac RU range , in addition to nanotechnology, which enables maximum depigmenting action in depth, we use multifocus active ingredients, i.e. active ingredients that act in all phases of the melanin synthesis process (induction, synthesis and distribution). Basically, Azelac RU is a depigmenting cocktail that enables a complete and effective action in preventing and combating dark spots.

The Azelac RU range includes several references, of which we highlight the Liposomal Serum and the Luminous Fluid SPF50:

- Azelac RU Liposomal Serum, 30 ml

Base treatment serum for melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and other types of hyperpigmentation. All skin types. Suitable for high phototypes.

Composition: Azelaic acid, 4-butylresorcinol, vitamin C (ascorbyl glucoside), niacinamide, glycyrrhetinic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde, undecylenoylphenylalanine, tranexamic acid, diacetyl boldin, Morus alba, daisy extract.

How to use: Apply a few drops to previously cleansed skin, massaging gently until completely absorbed. Before the usual moisturiser in the morning and/or evening.

- Azelac RU Luminous Fluid SPF50, 50 ml

Moisturizing care with photoprotection for melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentations and other types of hyperpigmentation. Suitable for all skin types and high skin types. With high sun protection (SPF50). Can be used every day of the year, even with high sun exposure

Composition: Azelaic acid, 4-butylresorcinol, vitamin C (ethyl ascorbic acid), tranexamic acid, diacetyl boldin, daisy extract, undecyleneyl phenylalanine, growth factors (TGF-β2), sunscreens, luminous pigments.

How to use: Apply to previously cleansed skin, massaging gently in the morning. Although this moisturizer already contains sun protection filters, it does not dispense with the renewal of sun protection, ideally every 2 hours with the REPASKIN sunscreen of your choice in terms of texture. If you prefer cream textures, you can choose between dry touch (more unctuous) or invisible fluid (more fluid). If you prefer a matte effect without any shine or white streak, we recommend the silk touch, with a silicone finish. The latter exists with and without color.

COMPLEMENTARY RANGES

The Azelac RU range is our best answer in the prevention and control of hyperpigmentation. However, its combination with other ranges can be beneficial, particularly when it makes it possible to obtain synergies that enhance results. At this level, we highlight ranges that reinforce the depigmenting action in the synthesis phase of the melanogenesis process, such as the C-VIT and HIDRADERM TRX ranges, and ranges that accelerate the dispersion in melanin on the surface, due to an exfoliating effect (i.e., that act on the third phase of the melanogenesis process) such as the AcGLICOLIC or RETISES ranges. The latter will be particularly interesting in the evening routines.

Get inspired by our suggestions:

Suggestion 1 - Depigmenting routine for dry skin:

MORNING ROUTINE:

1 – Hygiene with Sensyses Cleanser Lightening

2 – Base treatment with Azelac RU Liposomal Serum

3 – Hydration with C-Vit Radiance Face Cream

4 – Sun protection with Repaskin Silk SPF50 (renew throughout the day)